Guide · Western Australia · 26 August 2009

Ningaloo Reef snorkelling: when to go and what to expect

By the Australia Travel Escapes editorial team · Who we are

Ningaloo reef snorkelling is best from March to June if you want to swim with whale sharks, and good for most of the year if you only want to float over coral. The reef sits so close to shore in places that you can wade in from the sand. This guide covers where the reef is, when to go, what the water feels like, how the protected zones work and how to stay safe.

Sources for this section: Department of Conservation and Land Management and Marine Parks and Reserves Authority, Management Plan for the Ningaloo Marine Park and Muiron Islands Marine Management Area (Management Plan Number 52).

Where the reef is

Ningaloo Marine Park runs for about 260 km along the Western Australian coast, from Bundegi near Exmouth to Amherst Point in the south. The Western Australian government plan for the park says it takes in about 90 per cent of Ningaloo Reef.

Two towns serve most visitors: Exmouth in the north and Coral Bay in the south. Tour boats leave from each to swim with whale sharks.

Ningaloo is a fringing reef. That means it grows close to the shore, with a shallow lagoon between the beach and the reef crest. The state plan describes it as the largest fringing reef in Australia.

When to go

Whale sharks gather off the reef from March to June each year, according to the state plan. The plan says several hundred visit each year, mostly young males between three and nine metres long. Numbers change a lot from one year to the next, so no tour can promise a sighting.

If you only want coral and fish, you do not need to time the trip around the sharks. The plan notes that snorkelling and diving are part of the tourism in the park, and the sharks are only one reason to visit. Still, the weather and the water change through the year.

Summer (December to February): the lagoon is warm, with a December average of 25.6°C and highs near 30°C in the plan's survey. Tropical cyclones can hit the coast, and summer rain from them is irregular but sometimes heavy.
Autumn (March to May): whale shark season starts.
Winter (June to August): the water is coolest. The lagoon dropped to 17.8°C in August in the plan's survey, with an August average of 20.5°C. June is also the wettest month, though the whole region is dry.

Swimming with whale sharks

You cannot reach the sharks from the beach. They feed in the open water beyond the reef crest, so you go out on a licensed tour boat. The state plan says most meetings happen in two areas: seaward of the reef crest between Tantabiddi and Point Edgar in the north, and north-west of Point Maud in the central part of the park.

In 2005 the state granted fifteen whale shark tour licences. Three went to Coral Bay operators. The rest went to Exmouth operators who leave from Tantabiddi.

Whale sharks are fully protected in Western Australia, and it is an offence to disturb them. A code of conduct sets out how boats and swimmers must behave around them. Your tour crew will brief you before you enter the water. Listen to it, keep your distance and never touch the animal.

Snorkelling from the shore

The lagoon is where most people snorkel. It is shallow and usually sheltered, and the coral often starts close to the beach. The state plan lists boat charters, glass-bottom boats and snorkelling trips among the tours at Bundegi, Tantabiddi and Coral Bay.

Local conditions matter more than the calendar. The plan explains that water pumps over the reef crest and flows out through gaps in the reef, which creates strong currents in some places. It also says nearshore currents run mostly northwards. Before you go in, ask at the visitor centre or at a dive shop where the safe entry points are today.

Treat the reef gently. The plan names reef walking, anchoring and boating as causes of local coral damage. Float, do not stand. Do not touch or collect anything.

Protected zones

Parts of the park are sanctuary zones. The state plan sets these aside to protect typical reef habitats and wildlife, and they cover 34 per cent of the park. The plan describes them as no-take zones, which means fishing is not allowed there. You can still swim and snorkel, so many of the best spots for looking at fish are inside them.

The zone boundaries are shown on park maps, and the plan mentions marker buoys as part of the park's signs and moorings. Pick up a map when you arrive and check which zone you are in before you drop a line.

Safety basics

Check the weather. Cyclones are a regular risk on the north-west coast, and the plan records winds above 250 km/hr in Cyclone Vance in 1998.
Respect the currents. Go in with a partner, stay near shore if you are unsure and ask locals about drift and reef gaps.
Dress for the water. A cool winter lagoon can chill you quickly over a long swim, so many people wear a wetsuit or rash shirt.

General information only, not medical advice. Anyone with heart, lung or breathing problems should check with a doctor before a long swim in open water.

Sources

Department of Conservation and Land Management and Marine Parks and Reserves Authority, Management Plan for the Ningaloo Marine Park and Muiron Islands Marine Management Area (Management Plan Number 52), Western Australian Department of Conservation and Land Management: dbca.wa.gov.au
Australia's Coral Coast, home page, as archived on 28 August 2008: web.archive.org