Chiang Mai travel guide: temples, markets and day trips

Chiang Mai travel guide in short: we suggest three days, plus a fourth for a day trip. Spend one day on the Old City temples, one on Doi Suthep and one wandering the city, with evenings at the markets. King Mengrai founded Chiang Mai in 1296. It is the largest city in northern Thailand, about 700 km north of Bangkok.

Sources for this section: Wikipedia, Chiang Mai.

When to go and how to get there

Smartraveller, the Australian government's travel advice site, says the wet season in northern Thailand runs from May to October, so late May is near its start. Smoke haze usually covers parts of the north in March and April. Wikivoyage lists November to February as the cool season.

From Bangkok you can fly, take a train or ride a bus. The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) lists several flights a day. It puts express trains at about 11 to 12 hours and buses at 10 to 12. The airport is about 3 km from the city centre, Wikivoyage says.

Australian tourists who arrive at an international airport can stay up to 30 days without a visa in advance, Smartraveller says. Thai authorities recommend at least six months of passport validity.

Sources for this section: Smartraveller, Thailand; TAT, Chiang Mai; Wikivoyage, Chiang Mai.

Old City temples

The Old City is a walkable square, about 1.6 km on each side, with a moat around it. It holds more than 30 temples.

Start at Wat Phra Singh, built in 1345. TAT says it holds the north's most revered Buddha image, in a chapel called Wihan Lai Kham. Next, visit Wat Chedi Luang. Its huge chedi (a monument for relics) lost its top long ago, and UNESCO and the Japanese government helped to restore it in the 1990s. A daily Monk Chat is held in the grounds, where visitors can talk with monks. Wikipedia calls Wat Chiang Man, also inside the Old City, the oldest temple in Chiang Mai.

Wikivoyage lists a 40 baht fee for foreigners at Wat Chedi Luang. Chiang Mai CityLife reported on 2 June 2016 that the temple would start charging it on 1 July. Wikivoyage advises covering at least your shoulders and knees at temples, and taking off your shoes when you enter.

Sources for this section: TAT, Chiang Mai; Wikipedia, Chiang Mai and Wat Chedi Luang; Lonely Planet, Wat Chedi Luang; Chiang Mai CityLife, 2 June 2016; Wikivoyage, Chiang Mai and Thailand.

Doi Suthep and other day trips

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep overlooks the city from a mountain. It was built in 1383 to enshrine Buddha's relics, and TAT lists opening hours of 6 am to 5 pm. A staircase of about 300 steps, lined with mosaic naga (serpents), climbs to the top. Lonely Planet says a lift costs 20 baht and puts entry at 30 baht. The terrace has wide views over the city.

Red trucks (shared pick-ups) run to the foot of the temple steps from several points in town. Lonely Planet quotes 50 baht a person from in front of Wat Phra Singh, and the trucks leave only when they have enough passengers.

For a longer day, try Doi Inthanon National Park, home to Thailand's tallest peak, which TAT says is 2,565 metres high. Wikivoyage puts the park about 115 km from the city and says it takes two to three hours to reach. It adds that the summit is almost always in cloud in the rainy season.

Sources for this section: TAT, Doi Suthep and Doi Inthanon; Lonely Planet, Doi Suthep; Wikivoyage, Chiang Mai and Doi Inthanon.

Night markets and walking streets

On Sundays, Ratchadamnoen Road, the Old City's main street, closes to traffic and stalls fill it from Tha Phae Gate to Wat Phra Singh. Lonely Planet lists the market as 4 pm to midnight, but Wikivoyage says most vendors start to pack up around 10 pm, so go early.

A smaller walking street runs on Saturdays along Wualai Road, south of the Old City. The Night Bazaar on Chang Khlan Road opens at 6 pm, and Wikivoyage notes that many of its stalls look alike. Warorot Market is where locals shop by day for fabrics, spices, tea and dried fruit. Wikivoyage tells visitors to hunt down khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth, and calls it Chiang Mai's signature dish.

Sources for this section: Lonely Planet, Sunday Walking Street; Wikivoyage, Chiang Mai.

Elephant sanctuaries: five questions to ask

Chiang Mai has many elephant camps and parks, and the word "sanctuary" does not prove good care. World Animal Protection warns that some venues market themselves as sanctuaries. It also says elephants trained for rides go through a harsh process known as "the crush". It lists five questions to ask before you book.

1. Are the elephants used for entertainment? A genuine sanctuary offers no rides, shows or "be a mahout" activities.
2. Do they live in a wild or semi-wild setting, day and night?
3. Does the venue teach visitors accurately about elephant welfare?
4. How are the elephants controlled? Handlers should use humane methods in all situations and positive reinforcement whenever possible.
5. Does the venue breed elephants in captivity? True sanctuaries do not.

In October 2016, TripAdvisor said it would stop selling tickets to attractions where tourists come into contact with wild animals or endangered species. That includes elephant rides. Smartraveller adds that safety standards at tour operators, including on elephant safaris, are not always met. It suggests checking that your travel insurance covers the activity.

Sources for this section: World Animal Protection, Tips to spot an elephant-friendly venue; NPR, TripAdvisor stops selling tickets; Smartraveller, Thailand; Wikivoyage, Chiang Mai.

Staying safe and respectful

Smartraveller asks Australians to exercise a high degree of caution in Thailand. It cites possible civil unrest and the threat of terrorist attack. Tourist attractions are open during the mourning period for King Bhumibol, though some public events may be disrupted. The Thai government announced his death on 13 October 2016. Smartraveller asks visitors to avoid festive behaviour and to consider sombre clothing in public. Insulting the monarchy can bring up to 15 years in prison, so take care with social media posts about the mourning period.

Thai law requires motorbike riders and passengers to wear helmets, and you need a licence of the correct class to ride. Smartraveller says your insurance may not cover you if you are not licensed to ride in Australia.

Watch your bag in crowded markets: Smartraveller warns of pickpockets there and of thieves on motorcycles snatching bags from walkers. Be wary of tuk-tuk drivers who take you to shops where they earn a commission. Australia has a consulate in Chiang Mai, open by appointment only.

Sources for this section: Smartraveller, Thailand.