Carnarvon Gorge walks: a Queensland outback guide

Carnarvon Gorge walks start at the visitor area and follow one main track up a sandstone gorge in central Queensland. The track runs 9.7 km to Big Bend and crosses Carnarvon Creek many times. Side tracks lead to the Moss Garden, the Amphitheatre, Ward's Canyon and the Art Gallery. The department recommends at least three days here.

This guide lists each walk with its distance and time, then covers the drive from Roma, camping rules and what to bring.

Sources for this section: Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge, About Carnarvon Gorge.

The main gorge track

The main track is mostly flat. It starts at the visitor area and ends at Big Bend, 9.7 km away. The side tracks are where it gets steeper. You will cross the creek many times on rocks, and the department warns that the stepping stones can be slippery or loose. Serious injuries have happened from falls on them, so wear shoes with good grip.

The department also gives a handy tip. The Moss Garden, Amphitheatre, Ward's Canyon and Art Gallery can be joined into one day walk of 14 km return. Leave early and carry plenty of water.

Sources for this section: Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge, About Carnarvon Gorge.

Walk by walk

The department grades each track. Class 2 is an easy level track. Class 3 is a gently sloping track with steps and steep parts. Class 4 may be overgrown and needs a moderate level of fitness. All distances below are return trips from the visitor area unless noted.

Three short walks start from car parks on the road in. Baloon Cave is 1 km return and has a stencilled rock art site. Mickey Creek Gorge is 3 km return and turns into rock hopping. The Rock Pool is 600 m return and is the only place in the gorge set aside for swimming.

Sources for this section: Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge, About Carnarvon Gorge.

What you will see

The Art Gallery is the main stop for most walkers. The department says more than two thousand engravings, ochre stencils and freehand paintings cover its 62 m sandstone wall, and it holds one of the best examples of stencil art in Australia. Rock art is fragile, so keep to the paths.

The Amphitheatre is a chamber 60 m deep, cut into the rock by running water. Ward's Canyon is a cool, shaded spot with king ferns, and the Moss Garden has a small waterfall that drops into an icy pool. Boolimba Bluff is the only formed lookout track from the gorge. It rises 200 m above the creek, has steps and short ladders, and is best in the early morning.

Look for wildlife too. The park lists more than 173 bird species. The Nature trail is a good place for turtles, and for platypus at dawn and dusk.

Sources for this section: Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge, About Carnarvon Gorge.

Getting there from Roma

Carnarvon Gorge lies between Roma and Emerald. From Roma, drive 90 km north to Injune, then 111 km along the Carnarvon Highway to the signed turn-off. The road into the park is another 45 km, and 15 km of it is unsealed gravel. That adds up to about 246 km, by our sum.

From Emerald, drive 65 km south to Springsure, 70 km east to Rolleston, then 61 km to the turn-off. No fuel is sold after Rolleston or Injune. The nearest vehicle and tyre repair is at Roma or Springsure. After heavy rain the gravel can close, so ring 13 19 40 or RACQ before you go. Basic supplies are sold at Takarakka Bush Resort, 4 km from the visitor centre.

Sources for this section: Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge, About Carnarvon Gorge.

Where to stay

Camping inside the visitor area is open only in the Easter, winter and spring Queensland school holidays. It has 35 sites, a 5 night limit and no mobile phone coverage. The department says sites are often booked six months ahead. Big Bend, a 19.4 km return walk, is open all year, and you must book it in advance.

Outside the park, Takarakka Bush Resort and Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge are 4 km and 3 km by road from the visitor centre. Both have cabins, and Takarakka also has powered camp sites. Pets are not allowed in the park.

Sources for this section: Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge, Camping information and About Carnarvon Gorge.

What to bring and when to go

The department's list is short. Bring a first-aid kit, a hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, a torch, extra food and boots or strong shoes. Carry a sealable container for rubbish, because there are no bins. Take at least 2 litres of water per person. Taps in the day-use area give treated drinking water, but creek water is not fit to drink and the tracks have no taps.

Summer days often pass 35°C, and storms and flash floods are possible from October to April. Winter nights can fall to freezing. For remote overnight walks the department advises the cooler months, usually March to October. It asks groups to stay at six people or fewer and to call the rangers at least 10 days ahead.

Sources for this section: Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge, About Carnarvon Gorge.

Sources

1. Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, About Carnarvon Gorge (archived February 2016): web.archive.org
2. Queensland Department of National Parks, Sport and Racing, Carnarvon Gorge camping information (archived January 2016): web.archive.org